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Growing Camellia Japonica: Best Feed, Compost, Position + My Experience

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When I bought a Camellia japonica for my fiancée as a Mother’s Day gift from our twins, I had little idea how much I’d end up learning about the plant.

While she loved the idea of having a winter-blooming plant brightening up our home’s entrance, the reality is that I do most of the caring for it and along the way, I’ve neglected it slightly too, but also learned what truly works, and discovered just how rewarding it is to see healthy new leaves and vivid pink-red blooms.

Since I got into gardening, my camellia journey has been a mix of trial and error. I’ve battled curled leaves, slow growth, and even a disappointing bloom-free winter.

But I’ve also had the joy of seeing the leaves return to a bright, glossy green once I discovered the secret: 100% ericaceous compost, the right feed, and a bit of patience.

In this post, I’ll share my recommendations based on first-hand experience, including the best feed for camellias, the ideal compost or soil mix, how and when to prune, and where to position your camellia for the best results.

Best Feed for Camellias

If I could give only one piece of advice for camellias, it would be this: don’t underestimate the importance of feeding your plant regularly. Camellias are acid-loving plants that need the right nutrients to thrive, especially when grown in pots like mine.

I’ve settled on a feeding routine that works really well:

  • Granular feed 2–3 times per year – I use a granular slow-release fertiliser designed for acid-loving plants. This provides a steady supply of nutrients over the growing season.
  • Liquid blooms booster – I also feed with Relentless Gardener Blooms Booster, which really seems to encourage flower bud development.
  • Iron sulphate – This is essential for keeping the soil pH acidic and preventing leaf yellowing. I add a small amount occasionally to maintain the right balance.

In 2024, I was busy and missed a couple of feedings.

The leaves started to shrivel, and I didn’t get a single bloom the following winter. It was frustrating, but also a reminder that camellias, especially in pots, rely on us to supply all their nutrients.

So now, I always feed after the plant has finished flowering, typically in early spring, and continue through the growing season. Stop feeding around late summer to avoid encouraging new soft growth that could be damaged by frost.

I regularly check the pH of the soil too in case it needs a top-up of ericaceous compost or a bit of pH mopdifier. Usually in the form of iron Sulphate.

Best Compost or Soil for Camellias

If feeding is important, then choosing the right compost is absolutely crucial. I can say without hesitation that using 100% ericaceous compost is non-negotiable for camellias.

When I first planted my Camellia japonica, I made the mistake of mixing ericaceous compost with standard multi-purpose compost.

Within months, the leaves started curling and looking dull. It wasn’t until I replaced the entire contents of the half-barrel planter with Miracle-Gro Ericaceous Compost that the plant bounced back. Within weeks, new leaves emerged in a healthy, vibrant green.

A key thing I’ve learned: ericaceous compost loses its acidity over time, especially in pots. After about two years, I noticed a decline in growth again, which is why I replenished the compost. This made a noticeable difference in the plant’s overall health.

Tip:

  • Use only ericaceous compost for planting camellias in pots.
  • Refresh or top up the compost every couple of years.
  • Check soil pH occasionally—if it drifts above 6.5, add iron sulphate to correct it.

Best Position for Growing Camellias

One of the most common questions I get asked is: Should camellias be grown in sun or shade? In my experience, camellias prefer dappled shade or a partially shaded spot.

I’ve placed mine near the entrance to our home, where it gets a mix of morning sun and afternoon shade. This balance seems to suit it perfectly. Too much direct sun, especially during hot summer days, can cause leaf scorch. On the other hand, too much shade can limit flower bud formation.

Another reason I like this position is that the bright pink-red blooms light up the otherwise dark entrance during late winter—a time of year when most plants aren’t doing much. It’s such a cheerful sight.

Tip: Avoid planting camellias where they get harsh early morning sun in winter. If the buds are frosted overnight, sudden morning sun can damage them.

When to Trim, Prune, or Cut Camellias

To be honest, I haven’t had to prune my Camellia japonica much. It’s a slow grower, and I’m happy to let it keep its natural shape. That said, I’ve researched pruning in case I need to do it in the future, and here’s what I’ve learned:

  • Prune right after flowering. Pruning too late removes next season’s flower buds.
  • Light pruning encourages bushier growth. You can snip off any long or awkward branches to maintain shape.
  • Remove dead or damaged branches at any time.

For young plants like mine, less is more. Since camellias don’t grow particularly fast, there’s no need for heavy pruning unless you want to reshape or rejuvenate an older plant.

Lessons from My Camellia Growing Journey

When I think back to when I first bought this camellia in 2022, I realize just how much I’ve learned from caring for it. The biggest lesson is that camellias are only as healthy as the soil they’re grown in. Switching to pure ericaceous compost was a turning point. I’ve also learned the importance of consistent feeding—especially with the right fertilisers like Relentless Gardener Blooms Booster—and how easily neglecting this can result in a disappointing flower season.

The other big lesson is patience. Camellias don’t grow fast, and they can be a bit temperamental, but when they reward you with a burst of pink or red blooms in the middle of winter, it feels worth all the effort.

Final Recommendations

If you’re thinking about growing Camellia japonica, here are my key takeaways:

  1. Use 100% ericaceous compost—don’t mix it with regular compost. Miracle-Gro’s ericaceous compost has worked really well for me.
  2. Feed regularly—2–3 times per year with a granular feed and supplement with a liquid bloom booster. Add iron sulphate to maintain pH.
  3. Place your camellia in partial shade—too much sun or too much shade both cause problems.
  4. Prune lightly after flowering—but don’t overdo it, especially for slow growers.
  5. Be patient—camellias are worth the wait!

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