Growing Hydrangea – Mophead & Anabel – Planting, Feeding & Watering

When I moved into my first home, I bought a tiny mophead hydrangea and stuck it in at the back of the garden.

I didn’t know a huge amount about plant care at the time, probably like most when they first start out. I assumed it would just look after itself.

After going on holiday and leaving it to fend for itself, it was almost completely DEAD by the time I came back.

But I was determined to save it — and thankfully, it bounced back.

Now, just a few years later, it’s a two-metre-tall, two-metre-wide beauty that flowers generously each summer.

Here’s everything I’ve learned about growing hydrangeas — from pruning and feeding to planting and troubleshooting.

Hopefully, my experience will help you get the most from yours too. And maybe this article from Gardener’s World

How to plant a new hydrangea

It’s fairly simple. Choose a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade, and dig a hole twice the width of the root ball.

Before placing the plant in the hole, I always add a handful of TRG Blooms Booster it’s rich in phosphorus and helps support strong root growth and flowering from the start.

Gently tease out the roots if they’re compacted, then plant at the same depth it was in the pot. Backfill with soil, firm it down, and water thoroughly. Finish with a mulch to lock in moisture.

Get yourself a free hydrangea

In the summer when it’s got strong leaves, simply take a cutting, cut the lower leaves off. Halve the top 2 remaining leaves.

Then, stick it in a pot, put a plastic bag over it and place it out of direct sunlight while letting it grow roots.

In a few months, you’ll have new roots and it will start growing well.

When and How I Prune My Hydrangea – After Blooming

Like many people, I didn’t realise at first how important timing is when it comes to pruning hydrangeas.

One year, I gave it a tidy-up early in the season, only to find it barely flowered that summer.

It turned out that mophead hydrangeas bloom on old wood, so pruning too early (especially in spring) can remove the very buds that would have produced flowers.

Now, I leave pruning until after the blooms have faded in late summer, cutting just above a healthy pair of buds and removing any dead or woody stems at the base.

Since then, it’s bloomed brilliantly every year.

Planting and Position of your hydrangea: What’s Worked for Me

I planted mine at the back of a sunny bed — not because of some great plan, but simply because that space needed filling. Luckily, it seems to love it there.

It gets full sun from around mid-morning until the evening, and despite the common advice that hydrangeas prefer shade, mine has done incredibly well in the sun. That said, I do keep a close eye on it during hot, dry spells. If there’s been no rain for a while, I’ll give the whole bed a good soak using the sprinkler.

As for soil, I haven’t done much to adjust the pH.

It’s planted in fairly neutral soil, and I mulch it every year to help keep moisture in.

Hydrangeas are often described as acid-loving, but I’ve found that as long as they’re well-fed and watered, they don’t mind a neutral bed. Mine blooms pinkish-mauve, which is typical for neutral ground.

Feeding and Watering Routine That Works

When the plant was smaller and more fragile, I watered it a lot more often. These days, it seems more resilient, but I still water deeply if there’s been no rain for over a week.

I feed it with a granular feed called Relentless Gardener Super Booster — it’s low in nitrogen but has more phosphorus to support flowering.

I also use a liquid feed with added potassium and seaweed. Between those and the mulch, it seems to get everything it needs.

If you’re growing in pots, you’ll probably need to water and feed more often — containers dry out quickly. But in the ground, especially once established, they’re less demanding than people often assume.

Can Hydrangeas Grow in Clay, Pots or Shade?

Mine’s planted in clay-based soil and is doing brilliantly, so yes — hydrangeas can grow in clay, as long as the drainage is decent. When I planted it, I added a bit of compost and mulch around the base to help loosen things up, and that seems to have worked well.

Although I haven’t grown hydrangeas in pots myself, many gardeners do. The key is to use a large enough container, make sure it drains well, and water consistently. I’d expect them to do well on patios or balconies, provided they’re not baking in full sun without any water.

As for shade, it really depends on the type. Mine is in full sun for most of the day, and it clearly thrives there. If you have a shadier garden, mopheads can still do well in dappled light, but too much shade can reduce flowering a lot.

How often to water your hydrangea

In the early days, wilting was a real problem — mostly because I didn’t water it enough after planting. Now that it’s well established, it’s far less sensitive, but if there’s a long dry spell, it does still droop. A good soak with the sprinkler sorts it out.

The one time I pruned it at the wrong time, I got barely any flowers the next summer. That was a tough lesson. Since then, I only tidy it up after flowering, and now it blooms reliably year after year.

I’ve noticed a few leaves turning yellow from time to time — that can be a sign of either too much water or not enough nutrients. Feeding regularly and making sure the soil doesn’t stay soggy has helped keep the foliage healthy.

Other Questions I Often Get Asked

One of the most common things people ask is whether hydrangeas are evergreen. The answer is no — they’re deciduous. Mine drops its leaves in autumn, but it comes back strong every spring.

They are perennial plants, meaning they come back year after year with the right care.

Hydrangeas can be mildly toxic to pets like cats and dogs. The plant contains compounds that may cause vomiting or stomach upset if eaten in large amounts.

A lot of people worry about whether hydrangea roots are invasive. Based on my experience, they’re not. The root system seems fairly shallow and hasn’t caused any issues in the garden — certainly nothing that would damage a foundation.

Hydrangea Bloom Time, Colour and Longevity

My hydrangea usually starts blooming around July and carries on well into early autumn. Some of the blooms start off pink and fade into green as the season goes on — which I think adds even more interest to the plant.

I haven’t tried to change the colour, but it is possible if you want to. If your soil is more acidic, you’ll tend to get blue flowers. If it’s alkaline, expect pinks and reds. Mine is somewhere in the middle, so I get a bit of both.

From everything I’ve seen, hydrangeas are long-lived plants. As long as you look after them — feed, mulch, prune carefully — they’ll thrive for years.

Looking back, it’s a bit amazing how far this hydrangea has come. I nearly lost it early on, but by getting the basics right — proper pruning, decent feeding, deep watering and a bit of mulch — it’s gone from struggling to stunning.

Hydrangeas are forgiving, rewarding, and not nearly as tricky as they’re sometimes made out to be. Whether you’re planting in clay, growing in pots, or just want reliable summer colour, they’re a great addition to any UK garden.

And if you’ve just brought one home, or are thinking about it — stick with it. Give it a bit of care, and you might be surprised by how well it rewards you.